Islands & Cycling

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Last update:  06-Oct-2004

Islands are often a very pleasant destrination for cyclists’, especially the Mediterranean Islands and the Atlantic islands SW of Portugal. Most time of the year the temperatures are nice, beaches are always nearby, and there is plenty of accommodation. That’s why a lot of cyclists’ and professional racers setup a training camp on some island in winter time to come in shape for the coming season. In summer many tourists stay on the islands but happily most of them stay in the coastal regions.

General

On this page are the most interresting islands for cyclists’, the other islands are to small or to flat.
All mountains on the islands are part of a undersea ridge (like Corsica) or are formed by volcanoes (like Tenerife).
The most mountainous islands have a similar characteristics: a ring road on or near de coast line with the major traffic and a couple of roads trough the central parts crossing the mountain ridge or heading towards a mountain top. The roads to the centre can be heavy climbs with a big altitude gain, but also the ring roads can be tiring because they often go continuously up and down. Most villages and touristic facilities are concentrated on the coast. The interior is normally more desolated and rough.


Atlantic Ocean


Mediterranean Sea

  1. Azores (Acores) (Por)
  2. Madeira (Por)
  3. Canary Islands (Islas Canarias) (Spa)
  1. Balearic Islands (Islas Baleares) (Spa)
  2. Corsica (Corse) (Fra)
  3. Sardinia (Sardegna) (Ita)
  4. Sicily (Sicilia) (Ita)

Statistics

Island (local name)

Area (km2)

Highest Point (m)

Highest Paved Road (m)

Gran Canaria

1532

Pico del Nieves (1949)

Pico del Nieves (1949)

Tenerife

2057

Pico del Teide (3718)

Observatorio de Izaña (2386)

la Palma

728

Roque de los Muchachos (2426)

Roque de los Muchachos (2415)

la Gomera

378

Garajonay (1487)

(Alto de) Garajonay (1487,paved?)
highest point on road 15CV (±1400)

el Hierro

278

Malpaso (1503)

Alto de Fileba (1330)

Açores

2355

Pico (2351) (Ilha do Pico)

Canto dos Baquinhos (<992) (Faial) ?

Madeira

741

Pico Ruivo (de Santana) (1862)

Pico do Arieiro (1818)

Mallorca

3625

Puig Major (1445)

Puig Major (<1445,military road, paved?)
Coll de Puig Major (880)

Corsica

8722

Monte Cinto (2710)

Ghisoni 2000 / Campu di Neige (1665)

Sardegna

24089

Punta la Marmora (1834)

Rifugio Spina (1570)

Sicilia

25708

Monte Etna (±3350)

Rifugio Gino Sapienza (1910)

Total 70213 Pico del Teide (3718) Roque de los Muchachos (2415)

 

 

Azores / Açores (Por)

Landscape

The Azores are a widely scattered group of 9 islands situated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean about 1500 km away from Portugal.
(and about 2000 km from Corvo Island to Saint John's, Newfoundland, Canada)
Their individual areas vary between 747 km2 (S.Miguel) and 17 km2 (Corvo). The volcanic origin of all the islands is revealed by their volcanic cones and craters.
The archipelago is divided into three administrative groups: the Eastern Group includes Santa Maria, with sandy beaches and green hills, and São Miguel, with the most important economic center of this Autonomous Region, the city of Ponta Delgada.
In the central group, five islands (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico and Faial) offer the visitor a variety of interesting sights: from the hot steaming geysers in Terceira to the volcanic peak in the island of Pico, raising 2341 m (the highest mountain in Portugal) above the Atlantic, and to the well known yachting port of the city of Horta, in Faial.
The Western group includes the more remote islands of Flores (whose name comes from the variety of flowers growing in a mountainous scenery) and Corvo, the smallest island, on top of a marine volcano with calm lakes and a green crater.
These islands are not yet spoilt by tourism, their varied, peaceful, quiet and often breath-taking scenery (flowers in the fields, blue and green of dreamy lagoons) largely compensates the cloudy, often rainy climate: mild in the summer, subtropical in the winter (around 15 °C).

Cycling

Pico I've found one photo of a bicycle on the Azores, so I guess not many people visit the Azores for a cylce holiday. This is probably due to the isolated location, the small size of the islands and the rainy climate. It's more likely that tourists will hire a bike for a ride around the island. On the island Pico it would be a challenge to visit the Pico peak, the highest top of Portugal, but you will at least need a mountainbike.
Passes
No information

Tips

  Recommend maps
- Freytag & Berndt, Azores (1:75.000)
- Turinta, Azores (1:75.000)

250.000 inwoners (109/km2)

http://eltiempo.hispavista.com/Portugal/Horta/


Islands

Satellite Image

Climate Horta

Meteo Horta

 

Madeira (Por)

Landscape

Madeira, called the pearl of the Atlantic, is a small island some 850 km to the Portugese coast, 600 km to the West African coast, and the name of the archipelago together with the small islands Porto Santo and the uninhabited islets Desertas and Selvagens.
Madeira (57 km long,22 km wide), called the Atlantic garden, is diverse and green, and has, despite its small size, high mountains, highlands and deep alpine valleys. The central area is volcanic in origin, with eruptions starting around 20 million years ago. They are thought to have finished 1.7 million years ago and are considered extinct.
Pico Ruivo, the highest mountain, can only be reached by foot. The central mountains, about 1200 m in elevation, form a protective barrier against the cold, wet winds from the north-east.
This island offers a variety of landscapes. Irrigation channels or ´levadas´ can be followed from sources high up in the mountains. You can see impressive sceneries of high, frightening mountain peaks, deep valleys, steep cliffs, green woods (145 different tree types) and exotic flowers.
The north coast, colder and rainier, is the rougher one, and especially the part between Porto Moniz and Sao Vicente is amazing. Steep cliffs, an occasional waterfall and a blue ocean. The south coast has a moderate, subtropical climate (average between 16° and 23°C). Here you find the biggest villages like the capital Funchal (small streets, mondaine plazas) and Camara de Lobos with the second highest of the European seacliffs, Cabo Girao. The island has only one, small, sandy beach at Prainha, very near to the cortious cape of Sao Lourenço. Wine is Madeira's most important product.
Madeira is an autonomous region having its own parliament and government.

Cycling

coastal road near Portu MunicAlthough Madeira is famous for walking, cyclists' being real climbers will love this island with most climbs exceeding 7% average.
In the western part most climbs go towards the Poiso pass ,with the possibility to climb to the Arieiro, the highest reachable point (1818), in the eastern part there is the Encumeada pass and from there the road to the plains of Paúl da Serra. The coastal road around the island has some famous parts with nice views and steep cliffs especially in the nord-west.
A combination of walking, cycling and doing nothing is maybe the best choice when visiting this beautiful island.
Passes
Madeira has 2 passes connecting the North and the South and a couple of no through summits in the W part of which some are very heavy. The climb to the Pico do Arieiro via de Poiso pass is the hardest climb of Portugal and one of the hardest of W.Europe. In the eastern central part there is a long road along the E-W ridge and over the high plains of the Paúl da Serra.

Tips

 

Recommend maps:
- Freytag & Berndt, Madeira (1:50.000)
- Turinta, Madeira (1:50.000)

260.000 inwoners, 90% mountains,
http://eltiempo.hispavista.com/Portugal/Madeira_occidental/


Elevation

Roads


Satellite Image

Climate Funchal

Meteo Fuchal

 

Canary Islands / Islas Canarias

Landscape

The Canary Islands, known since ancient times as the "Fortunate Islands" are estimated to be 30 million years old, relatively young by geological standards. They consist of 7 main islands and 6 islets, which are the tips of a vast volcanic mountain range lying beneath the Atlantic Ocean. Their nearest neighbour is Morocco, about 95km east of Fuerteventura. The volcanoes that form the islands' backbone saw the light of day at about the time the Atlas Mountains were formed in North Africa millions of years ago. The highest volcano, Tenerife's Teide (3718m) is Spain's tallest peak and the third tallest volcano in the world after two in Hawaii.
The islands pack a huge variety of landscapes into a small area, including weird volcanic desert plateaus, cloud forest wreathed in mist, cliffs lashed by Atlantic squalls, arid sand dunes, and green fields full of flowers, olives and fruit. All the volcanic activity has ensured that the soil is very fertile, but there are hardly any rivers and the islands have been periodically plagued by water shortages.
The islands are divided into 2 administrative provinces: Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Tenerife, La Palma, Gomera and Hierro) and Las Palmas (Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote).
Tenerife is the largest island, with amazing views of fertile valleys and the gigantic 29 km crater known as Las Cañadas del Teide (last stage of volcanic activity took place 500.000 years ago) from the mountain chain which splits the island. The capital is Santa Cruz de Tenerife, a modern city known for its friendliness, as well as
its beautiful gardens.
Gran canaria, the second-largest island is lined with magnificently varied and colorful flowers and plants as well as splendid and large beaches.
The island of La Palma, always called the "Beautiful Island," should be noted for its lush beauty and verdant forests.
All the islands share a constant spring climate.

Cycling

Pico del Teide The 2 most biggest and well-known islands are Gran Canaria and Tenerife. They are popular with tourists and cycists’ and very suitable for a week trip cycling. All roads away from the coast are in the direction of the highest tops, on Tenerife the Pico del Teide’ (3718m) and on Gran Canaria the Pico del Nieves (1949m). The Pico del Teide can be reached by a cable-lift from a point nearby the Puerto de las Canadas (2300m). You can make some nice rounds.

The other mountainous islands are la Palma, Gomera and Hierro. These islands are popular with walkers and hikers. The cycling possibilities however are limited. There are not many roads and in a couple of days you can cross the islands.
la Palma is interesting because it’s known as the steepest island in the world (compared to the limited size). There is a road to the highest top known as the Roque de la Muchachos (vetaling) on the Caldera de la Taburiente the biggest vulcano cone.
Passes
Most islands have some passes over the central ridge and roads to(wards) the highest peak.The hardest climbs are on the islands la Palma, Tenerife and Gran Canaria (around 2000m).

Tips

 

Recommend maps
- Die Generalkarte (Mairs): Gran Canaria-Fuerteventura- Lanzarote, Teneriffa-la Palma-Gomera-Hierro (1:200.000?)
- Freytag & Berndt: Gomera (1:35.000), Gran Canaria (1:75.000), Hierro (1:35.000), la Palma (1:50.000), Teneriffa (1:75.000)
- CNIG - Mapa Provincial, Islas Canarias (1:200.000)

 


Islands Overview

Satellite Image Tenerife

Climate Tenerife

Meteo Tenerife


Tenerife

Abouttenerife.com
Teninfo.com - teide
abc-tenerife.com


Gran Canaria

Grancanaria.com


la Palma

Lapalma.com


la Gomera

Gomera-island.com/
Insel-la-gomera.de
Mygomera.de - nice photos
Topreisebilder - Gomera - photos


el Hierro

El-hierro.org

 

Balearic Islands - Majorca / Islas Baleares - Mallorca

Landscape

The Balearics, an autonomous province of Spain, are made up of 4 major islands - Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera - surrounded by several small, rocky islets. Palma de Mallorca is about 250km away from the mainland of Spain.
About 8 million years ago, these islands connected to the Spanish plateau, were formed by the rising of this plateau at the same time as the Pyrenees and the Alps. By the rising of the sealevel, 12000 years ago, they became real islands.
Mallorca, the largest island (capital Palma de Mallorca), is surrounded by sparkling sandy beaches to the north and rocky coves and harbors along the south coast.
The northwest is defined by the dramatic Sierra del Norte or Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, shielding the central fertile plain Es Pla from the fierce Tramuntana wind and absorbing most of the island's rain and snow; in summer they provide a cool retreat from the heat of Palma and the south. Pine-covered slopes almost lean into the sea; as you climb higher, forested hills give way to barren crags and peaks. The Serra de Tramuntana runs from Andratx to Pollenca, with the rocky outcrops of Sa Dragonera and Cap de Formentor at either end. The 10 peaks over 1000m are concentrated in the area around Lluc with the the Puig Major (1445m) as the highest top. There are no rivers, though there are several mountain torrents which swell rapidly after rain and the Cuber and Gorg Blau reservoirs, essential resources on an is and so often affected by drought.
Tthe southwest is a region formed by the small ridge Serrania de Levante (some tops above the 500m) where you can find caves and rocky beaches.
Menorca was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1993, and it's well worth braving the sometimes chilling tramuntana winds to visit its largely untouristed beaches, coves and ravines. Ibiza and Formentara are hot and dry, the perfect climate for drinking beer on the beach.

Cycling

Puig Major route No matter where you go in Mallorca, you'll see cyclists clad in brightly-colored lycra whizzing by. The mild climate, ample sun, and relatively short distances between towns make Mallorca an ideal spot for cycle touring. In the first months of the year you can find professional racing teams and thousands of (mainly German speaking) cycling tourists on Mallorca staying in luxury hotels serving as a base camp for several organised rides.
Because of the wide variety of terrain on the island, it's possible to enjoy flat rides as well as hills that would challenge even the most fit folks on two wheels. The most spectacular routes run from Soller to the Coll de Soller and to the Coll the Puig Major, the highest reachable point (880m) and the serpentine route from Sa Calobra (coast) to Coll de San Lorenc.
Visitors who want to enjoy the beauty of Mallorca can also rent a bicycle and follow the country roads filled with great beauty, which will lead them to the small villages in the interior, and enable them to get to know Mallorca culture, enjoy the typical cooking in the Sellers and the peaceful way of life of the inhabitants.
Passes
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Tips

 

Recommend maps
- Freytag & Berndt, Mallorca (1:75.000)
- Die Generalkarte (Mairs), Mallorca-Balearen

- CNIG - Mapa Provincial, Islas Baleares (1:200.000)

There exists many bicycle guides of Mallorca.


Islands

Mallorca Roads
Satellite Image

Climate Palma de Mallorca

Meteo Palma de Mallorca

 

Corsica / Corse

Landscape

Corsica, known as 'L'Ile de Beauté' (island of beauty) or a Mountain in Sea, is the most moutainous island of the Mediterranean. It's the third largest island in the Mediterranean, measures 183 km in length and 85 km in width (coast line 1000 km) and is closer to the Italian continent than the French continent (170 km) and almost nose to nose (12 km) to its Italian cousin Sardinia.
Geologists’ agree that the Corsican-Sardinian micro-continent 30 million year ago was part of the French continent (close to the Provence region). This island is a land of incredible landscapes and has a wild, almost pristine environment. The National parks of Corsica protect over a third of the island. Geological upheaval and glaciation over the centuries has created rugged mountain ranges (more than 100 peaks over 2000 m high) and alpine areas, dramatic rocky inlets such as those near Piana, tafoni (cavities) and ornamental rocks. In this abundance of nature water is never far away, with its thermal springs, spectacular waterfalls, natural pools and glacier lakes.
Allmost all of Corsica is covered by mountains with the highest summits NW of Corte (Monte Cinto 2710m). Flatter parts are along the E and S coast.
Corsica is the greenest mediterranean island with more than 2800 trees, plants and flowers of which 120 unique. About 20% of the island is covered by the 'maquis', the typical Corsican vegetation of low bushes. The woods are characterized by the typical Corsican pine-trees (Laricio), chestnut trees and holm oaks. Corsica is famous for the wild pigs which are used to people.
The climate is mediterranean (in the summer warm and dry, avg. 25°C), with N Corsica slightly warmer. Corsica knows various winds depending on type and direction: Tramontane (N, cold, winter), Libeccio (SW, in summer hot and dry, in winter rainy), Grecale (NE, rainy), Mistral / Maestrale (NW, cold, rare), Mezzogiorno (cool breeze, spring), Sirocco (SE, dry and dusty, often followed by thunderstorms). Especially end of summer there there are sometimes thunderstorms! The rain period is from october till december.
Corsica is divided into 2 administrative regions (Departements): la Haute-Corse (with cities of Bastia, Calvi, Corte) and la Corse-du-Sud (Ajaccio, Sartène, Bonifacio)

Cycling

Col de VergioCorsica is a eldorado for nature, beach and pass lovers. There are more then … passes varying from 19m (lowest pass of Europe?) to 1464m.
There are many quiet roads and always there are nice views of beautiful trees, colored rocks and blue beaches. To start your trip the coastal roads are very nice especially the long, hilly coastal road from Ajaccio to Cap Corse. A famous mountain route walks from Piano to Porto Vecchio passing some beautiful passes like the col de Vergio (a must) and surely encountering wild pigs (please slowly descent). E from Corte there is a middle mountainous region ideal for making some nice rounds.
Conclusion: this is a higly recommended island but for cycling you need to be well trained because of the mountainous character and if not you can visit some nice beaches. (rocky and small in the W, long and sandy in the E).
Passes
On Corsica there are many passes, according to an article in magazine Fiets 1.... The highest is the Col de Vergio (1464m), the lowest pass is 19m, probably the lowest named pass of Europe! In the central part there are more than 10 passes > 1000m and a couple of dead-end roads to high points of which the road to Campu di Neige/Ghisoni 2000, ski area and highest reachable point.

Tips

 

Recommend maps
Michelin
90 (old,1:200.000)
345 (new.1:150.000)


Elevation
Roads

Satellite Image

Climate Ajaccio

Meteo Ajaccio

 

Sardinia / Sardegna

Landscape

Sardinia lies close to Corsica (Fra) and about 190 km from the coast of Italy. After Sicily Sardinia (length ±270km, width ±145km) is the biggest island in the Mediterranean. Smaller islands around are Maddalena, Caprera, Asinara and Sant’Antioco.
Sardinia has an extremely ancient geological history (starting in the Cambrian period 550 million years ago). It’s geologically quite distinct from the remainder of the territory of Italy and almost all geological eras are represented, making up a natural collection of varied and valuable rock types (of which some have a volcanic origin).
The ‘Monti de Gennargentu’ (door of silver) is the widest mountain range in Sardinia: the central massif, with peaks above 1800m and Punta la Marmora as highest peak (1834), stretches over the near Supramonti as far as the sea, where it forms the Golfo di Orosei, one of the wildest coasts in the Mediterranean Sea. The landscape is really interesting and varied: ranges and valleys alternate rocks and canyons, pasture lands, forests reach the beaches, surrounded by cliffs which drop to the crystal-clear sea. In this National Park you can find particular geomorfologici phenomena like the gorge ‘la gola di Su Gorroppu’, the crater of ‘Su Suercone’ and the carsica zone of ‘Su Sterru’.
The rest of the island is covered with smaller mountain chains with most peaks above 1000m: Gerrei-gebergte (S), Monte di Alba (NE), Marghine Goceano (E-W), Iglesiente-gebergte (SW), Capoterra-gebergte (ten zuidwesten van Cagliari).
These mountains are irregular and rocky (Roccia dell'Orso = bear rock). In the east the mountains are hardly covered with plants and woods, in the centre there are dense woods.
Sardinia has more than 1800 km of beautiful coastline. In the N and E the coast is very rocky, with small white beaches and lightblue water (the gulf of Orosei). The rest of the coast long shingle/sandy beaches alternate with big inlets and small bays.
The only bigger flat region is the wide plain from Oristano to Cagliari.
The entire territory is a natural oasis thanks to the luxuriant flora and the very rich fauna. The most well-known tree on Sardinia is the cork oak. Like on Corsica you find lots of low bushes called Macchia. You see wild pigs and horses and the very particular Sardinian fox, living in the mountains. Rare species are the last muflons, Sardinian deers, the Falco della Regina (hawk) and monk seals.
Sardinia has a subtropical climate with dry and very hot summers (on the coast between 25-30 °C, in the mountains ±20 °C). In the summer there is hardly rain, the winter is the rainy period especially in the north. The most common winds are the Mistral (cold from Rhone valley in France) and the Sirocco (hot from the Sahara dessert in Africa)
Sardinia and the smaller islands around form a region (Regione) with 4 provinces and Cagliari as capital city.

Cycling

Sardinia is lower than Corsica, but except for small parts it’s never really flat. Most of the island is hilly and small parts (like the Monti di Gennargentu) are mountainous.
The road system is fine enough and most roads are quiet.
It’s recommended for people who like the combination of nice beaches, rough nature and cycling in uneven but not too steep terrains.
Passes
On Sardinia there are not many named passes, only a couple in the Gennargentu mountains. There are however many passes and tops in the range 500-1000m in all the smaller mountain chains.

Tips

 

Recommend maps
- Touringclub Italiano (TCI)/Kümmerley & Frey, Sardegna/Sardinia
- Die Generalkarte (Mairs), Sardinien (no.9)


Elevation

Roads

Climate Fonni (centre)

Meteo Fonni

 

Sicly / Sicilia

Landscape

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and until the fourteenth century Sicily was the most important island in Europe. It’s sperated from the Italian mainland by the 3km wide street ‘Stretto di Messina’ and is 150km away from the African coast (Tunisia). A number of small islands located around Sicily (popular tourist resorts), the volcanic Aeolian (or Lipari) archipelago being the largest group, the Pelagic islands (with Lampedusa, Italy’s most southern point) and the Egadic islands.
Geological Sicily is a continuation of the mainland and therefore the Sicilian mountains belong to the long Apennines ridge formed between 2 and 70 million years ago.
Most of the island's surface is mountainous and hilly and can be divided into 5 parts from a landscape point of view.
In the NW the Sicilian or Cyclic Apennines (‘Appennino Siculo’) are formed by The ‘Monti Nebrodi’, ‘Le Madonie’ to the west and the ‘Monti Peloritani’ to the east. To the north these directly face the Tyrrhenian Sea, while their southern side is marked by the Etna. The main elements that characterize most the Nebrodi natural landscape are the asymmetry of each side, the different modelling of the mountain chains, with irregular profiles and sharp, fissured forms. The peaks reach the heights just below 2000 with Monte Soro (1847m) and Pizza carbonara (1979m) as highest peaks.
The eastern plain is dominated by the Etna (±3350m) and is Sicily's greatest natural attraction, the highest mountain and Europe's largest active volcano. To the ancient Greeks, Mount Etna was the realm of Vulcan, god of fire, and the home of the one-eyed monster known as the Cyclops. The height of its summit changes with each eruption, and over the centuries a few lava flows have reached the coast. Over 1200 square meters of Etna's surface is covered with solidified lava. Etna offers skiing in the Winter months and breathtaking hikes in the woods during the Summer. There are also a number of smaller peaks on the slopes of Etna, and some interesting caverns. Since Etna is a strato volcano, with relatively cool lava temperatures and numerous openings (vents), nobody ever knows precisely where on its vast surface the next eruption will be. Etna's long recorded history has proven invaluable to the world's volcanologists.
The other 3 regions are the extensive coastal region (1030km long, many rocky cliffs, caverns, small bays in the north and long sandy beaches in the south), the hilly interior (some smaller chains <1000m, strange stone fields, grey mud flows formed by sporadic geysers near Maccalube) and the Ragusa plateau in the SE (dry, limestone, green river valleys).
The vegetation is very rich (lots of flowers and plants) especially in the mountains. There are various species of oak and stone pine. Etna's deciduous trees change color in the Autumn, creating a spectacular panoply of changing shades.
The climate is mediterranean: in the summer warm and very dry (below 1500m between 35-40 °C in summer, on the coast and in the mountains somehow lower). The ‘sirocco’ wind from the African desert can also be very hot. The NW part (mountains) has a more moderate climate with more rain. The rain period is from octobre till march.
Sicily is a region (Regione) divided into 9 provinces (Provincia) and has Palermo as capital city

Cycling

Cycling in Sicily wasn't very popular in the past probably because of the intensive heat in the summer and the position of outpost of Europe, but more and more cyclist's come to the island. There are some organised cycling holidays and thanks to a mild climate it's possible to cycle all year long. On Sicily there are the cycling possibilites are very good. There are many quiet areas with 'green' routes and the roads are mostly in a very good shape. Sicily is also known because of the Mafia, but as far as I know they leave cyclist's alone probably because they think that cyclist's haven't much money otherwise they would be so smart to ride in a nice airconditioned car. So for a combination of sun, sea, (cycling) sweat and cities Sicily is very recommended.
Passes
In the mountains NE there are some named passes (1000-1550m) in the N-S direction connecting the coast with the central part. Around Mount Etna there are some roads towards the top. The higest reachable point is Rifugio Gino Sapienza (1910) on the south slope of the Etna. In the other mountainous parts of Sicily there are a lot of smaller passes and climbs.

Tips

  

Recommend maps
- Touringclub Italiano (TCI)/Kümmerley & Frey, Sicilia/Sicily
- Die Generalkarte (Mairs), Sizilien (no.10)

 


Elevation

Roads

Satellite Image

Climate Palermo

Meteo Palermo